Makiya “igitoki” bivuga tekinike ya karamu ya kera, itanga igihu gike hafi yijisho. Nta ngorane zo gukora, buri mukobwa arashobora kubishyira wenyine. Ikintu nyamukuru nukumenya ubuhanga bwose nuburyo bwo kwisiga.
- Intangiriro n’ibiranga “igitoki”
- Ninde igitoki kibereye?
- Ibyiza n’ibibi by’ikoranabuhanga
- Ni ayahe mabara uhitamo?
- igicucu
- amabara yijimye
- Guhitamo Ijwi – Ibipimo
- Ibikorwa byo kwitegura
- Amavuta yo kwisiga akenewe
- Gutegura uruhu
- Ubuhanga bwo gusaba
- Amaso
- Gushakisha
- Iminwa
- ibitoki
- Ni ayahe makosa akorwa kenshi?
- Inama zingirakamaro
- “Umuneke” mu kinyejana cyegereje
- Nigute ushobora gukosora imiterere y’amaso?
Intangiriro n’ibiranga “igitoki”
“Umuneke” ugamije gukosora imiterere y’amaso, utitaye ku bwoko bw’ahantu – hafi yegeranye, yimbitse, ibice bisa, bigufi, n’ibindi. Makiya ikoreshwa cyane, kabone niyo ijisho ryamanikwa.
Tekinike ifite izina ridasanzwe bitewe nuko igisubizo cya nyuma cyo gushushanya amaso gisa n’imbuto z’igitoki. Ibindi biranga:
- Witondere guhuza urumuri n’umwijima;
- igicucu kirakorwa;
- kwisiga bisa neza kandi byerekana uko bishoboka, cyane cyane nimugoroba;
- iyo ukoresheje amabara yambaye ubusa, biragaragara ko abujijwe;
- intera iri hagati y’amaso iriyongera cyangwa, kurundi ruhande, iragabanuka;
- biremewe gukoresha matte na nyina-wa-pearl igicucu, sequin, rhinestone, kubwibyo bikunze gukoreshwa mugukoresha marike yubukwe.
Ninde igitoki kibereye?
Intego yo kwisiga ibitoki nukwagura amaso. Irakoreshwa neza nabagore bafite ibice bito kandi bito, nubwo abahanzi bo kwisiga bavuga ko byoroshye guhuza nubwoko bwose bwamaso, isura yo mumaso, ibara ryuruhu n’imyaka. Visage ikoreshwa neza haba kumanywa nimugoroba.
Ibyiza n’ibibi by’ikoranabuhanga
Inyungu nyamukuru nuburyo bworoshye bwo gusaba no gutanga ibitekerezo kubireba. Makiya ikoreshwa cyane nibyamamare, kuko maquillage yanduzwa neza na kamera n’amatara. Ibindi byiza:
- guhindagurika – bikwiranye n’ubwoko ubwo aribwo bwose bwo mumaso no kuruhu;
- ikoreshwa haba mukiri muto kandi ikuze;
- rwose palette yose ifatwa nkibanze;
- kwisiga “yambarwa” mubuzima bwa buri munsi no mubirori bikomeye;
- biroroshye guhisha ubusembwa bwamaso no gushimangira imvugo yabo;
- ubushobozi bwo gukosora ingaruka zijisho ryegereje;
- gukosora intera iri hagati y’amaso.
Ariko hariho n’ibibi:
- ntibikwiye cyane kubagore bafite amaso azengurutse kandi mumaso ya oval;
- Ugomba kwiga uburyo bwo guhuza neza urumuri nigicucu cyijimye.
Ni ayahe mabara uhitamo?
Kugirango marike itunganijwe neza, wige uburyo bwo guhuza igicucu ukurikije ubwoko bwamabara. Ishingiye ku guhuza urumuri rwijimye nijimye, tubikesha ushobora kugera kubitandukaniro ntarengwa, bigatuma amaso agaragaza. Muri iki kibazo, ntushobora guhuza igicucu kirenze 3 icyarimwe.
Amategeko nyamukuru nuko amajwi yijimye kandi yoroheje agomba kuba mubwoko bumwe, ni ukuvuga, niba beige ikoreshwa, igikara kirakwiriye, niba cyera, hanyuma kirabura.
igicucu
Koresha iyi pigment ukoresheje tekinike ya “igitoki” gusa ahantu h’amaso y’amaso. Wemeze kuvanga impande zose zijisho, zidafite umuvuduko. Wibande ku mfuruka y’imbere y’amaso, igice cyo hagati cy’ijisho ryo hejuru.
Mbere yo gukoresha igicucu cyoroheje, koresha tekinike yifu, ituma maquillage isa nkibisanzwe.
amabara yijimye
Irangi risa rifatwa nkibanze. Igicucu cyijimye cyane, shushanya irangi ryijisho ryo hepfo hamwe nu mfuruka yinyuma yijisho, urambure pigment hamwe na brush. Muri iki gihe, kugenda bigomba kuba hejuru gato yububiko busanzwe bwamaso. Ingingo yijimye iherereye mu mfuruka yo hanze.
Kuri maquillage, amajwi yijimye-yijimye nayo arakoreshwa – akoreshwa kumaso yose yimuka. Nkuko byari bimeze mbere, igicucu kirakorwa.
Guhitamo Ijwi – Ibipimo
Ibiranga gushira maquillage kubakobwa bafite amabara atandukanye:
- Abagore bafite amaso yijimye bakoresha igicucu cyijwi ryoroshye gusa (beige, umutuku, umutuku, ubururu, umukara, imvi-pastel);
- kubwiza bwamaso yijimye, imvi nicyatsi-icyatsi, imyelayo, amatafari, beige birakwiye;
- icyatsi-amaso ni byiza guhitamo ubururu-imvi, korali, umukara wijimye, ubururu na lilac.
Guhitamo igicucu muburyo bwibitoki byubwoko:
- ubwoko bwimpeshyi bwabakobwa – icyatsi-icyatsi, pach, cream kandi buri gihe cyijimye cyijimye kugirango igicucu;
- icyi – ibara ry’umuyugubwe, imvi, beige na taupe;
- igihe cy’izuba – umutobe mwinshi n’umucyo (hamwe na palette ya burgundy na umutuku-wijimye);
- imbeho – ibara rikonje kandi ryerurutse risa neza, ni ngombwa gukoresha igicucu cyijimye, cyera na silver hamwe nigicucu cyirabura.
Ibikorwa byo kwitegura
Gutegura tekinike ya “igitoki” bikubiyemo gutegura ibikoresho nishingiro rya maquillage ubwayo – gukoresha tone nubundi buryo mumaso. Gusa nyuma yibyo ushobora gukomeza intambwe ikurikira – gushira maquillage muburyo bwimbuto zidasanzwe.
Amavuta yo kwisiga akenewe
“Umuneke” witwa benshi mubanyaburayi, bityo amafaranga arasabwa gushiraho umusingi ukomeye. Ukeneye iki:
- umusingi – ituma uruhu rugira isuku kandi rwiza;
- shingiro munsi yigitutu – kugirango zifate neza;
- ifu – niyo yerekana ijwi ryo mu maso;
- ikaramu ikomeye – ikoreshwa nk’ijisho nyamukuru;
- ikaramu yoroshye – yagenewe igicucu;
- ikaramu y’ijisho ryo gushiraho;
- ijisho – ryo gushushanya imyambi;
- mascara – yongeraho ubunini n’uburebure;
- igicucu cyifuzwa – urumuri, rwagati n’umwijima.
Usibye kwisiga, uzakenera ibikoresho bikurikira:
- indorerwamo;
- abasaba;
- brushes.
Gutegura uruhu
Uruhu rwo mumaso rwateguwe mubyiciro:
- Sukura uruhu rwa sheen yamavuta hamwe numwanda hamwe na tonic, gel, amata cyangwa ifuro ridasanzwe.
- Niba uruhu rufite inenge hamwe n’ibibazo, shyira ahisha cyangwa ukosora. Bitwikiriye acne, ibishishwa, uruziga rwijimye, ibibara byimyaka, inkovu.
- Kosora ingaruka za kamoufage hamwe na fondasiyo. Niba uruhu rufite amavuta, koresha urufatiro rufite ingaruka zo guhuza, niba rwumye cyangwa rusanzwe – hamwe nubushuhe cyangwa intungamubiri.
- Kumutwe wo hejuru no hepfo, shyira ifu ya fondasiyo munsi yigitutu.
- Gukwirakwiza ifu hejuru yumusingi.
Ubuhanga bwo gusaba
Makiya ishingiye ku gushushanya amaso, kuko maquillage iba igamije gushimangira imvugo yabo. Ariko ntiwibagirwe ibijyanye nijisho, ibara rya lipstick, nkuko byuzuye byishusho biterwa nibi.
Amaso
Intambwe y’ingenzi mu kurema igitoki. Tekiniki ya kera ikubiyemo intambwe zikurikira:
- Kora umusingi hamwe n’ikaramu. Kugirango ukore ibi, uhagarare neza, komeza umutwe wawe neza kandi urebe mu ndorerwamo kugirango umenye neza ibintu nyamukuru. Shushanya ijisho ryo hepfo hamwe n’ikaramu yijimye kugirango indentation iva mu mfuruka y’ijisho no ku murongo wa ciliary iri hagati ya mm 3 na 4.
- Ku mfuruka yo hanze, shushanya umurongo hejuru ugana ahantu hejuru ya crease yo hejuru. Turabikesha, ibice bigize ishusho hejuru no hepfo bizaba bimwe. Hindura iki gice rwose kandi ushushanye umurongo kuri iris y’amaso.
- Kuvanga na brush. Kugirango ukore neza, uhereye hepfo yijisho ujya ugutwi, kuva hejuru – kugeza kumpera yijisho, uhereye kuruhande – utambitse.
- Kora igicucu kimwe kumaso yo hejuru. Uzabona imiterere.
- Gutanga ubwitonzi, kora uburyo bwo kugicucu inshuro 1-2.
- Koresha umuyonga munini kugirango utwikire impande zose zifite amababa igicucu cyamabara yinyama.
- Ukoresheje icyuma cya eyeshadow, shyira urumuri rwa beige eyeshadow ahantu h’igicucu, ushushanya umurongo kuruhande rwimbere rwijisho. Igicu kigomba kwaguka kirenze imirongo yikaramu ntarengwa ya mm 4. Igicucu cyumwotsi gikorerwa mucyerekezo kimwe n’ikaramu.
- Noneho kora kimwe, ariko ufite igicucu gitandukanye – cyijimye kandi cyijimye.
- Fata ijisho ryirabura, shushanya umwambi muto cyane hamwe nawo, utangirira ku mfuruka y’imbere y’ijisho ukarangirira aho imikurire y’amaso irangirira. Kuvanga byoroheje.
- Shushanya umwanda ufite igicucu cyumukara kumurongo wumwambi kuva kumpera yinyuma kugera kuri iris.
- Shushanya kandi hejuru yijisho kuva hepfo. Menya neza ko imirongo yombi ihuza.
- Hindura amabara yawe.
Gushakisha
Amaso yoroheje cyane ntabwo akwiranye no kwisiga ibitoki – bigomba kuba bifite imiterere karemano, ariko ntibigire ubugari. Kurema ishusho, menya neza kubishushanya n’ikaramu, ibara ryayo rihuye nigicucu cyimisatsi isanzwe.
Iminwa
Shyira iminwa hamwe na lipstick. Kwisiga kumanywa, biremewe gukoresha igicucu gituje gihuye nigicucu cyigicucu. Ku mugoroba, urashobora gukoresha verisiyo isanzwe – lipstick itukura.
Iyo ukoresheje “igitoki”, abahanzi bo kwisiga bakwirakwiza gloss kumurongo wo hagati yiminwa.
ibitoki
Hariho byinshi bitandukanye mugushushanya tekinike, biterwa no gukoresha igicucu cyihariye. Abahanga batandukanya ubwoko 4 bwingenzi, bufatwa nkibanze:
- Umunsi cyangwa buri munsi. Koresha ibara ryijimye, beige n’amabara ya zahabu yoroheje nk’igicucu, hanyuma ukore igishushanyo kijimye cyangwa igikara. Urashobora kongeramo imvugo nziza.
- Umugoroba. Nimugoroba, igicucu cyiza kiremewe. Wumve neza ko ukoresha amabara ayo ari yo yose usibye pastel. Gushushanya – umukara, ubururu. Ikiranga – gukina na mascara (ntibishobora kuba umukara gusa, ariko nanone icyatsi, ubururu.
- Ibara. Nicyerekezo cyumwimerere ukuyemo igicucu – imirongo yose nimbibi birasobanutse.
- Ubukwe cyangwa ibiruhuko. Ishingiro ni ugukoresha igicucu hamwe na nyina mwiza-wa-pearl, rhinestone, sparkles, nibindi.
Ni ayahe makosa akorwa kenshi?
Ubusanzwe ibibazo bivuka mubakobwa, kubera imyaka yabo, batazi kwisiga. Nubwo “igitoki” gifatwa nkuburyo bworoshye bwo kwisiga, gifite kandi imitego yabwo. Ni ayahe makosa akunze kugaragara abantu bakora:
- guhuza nabi igicucu, biganisha ku kutumvikana – gukoresha igicucu cyijimye hamwe n’umuhondo, imvi, nibindi bisa nabi;
- ubwinshi bwishingiro, cyane cyane kwisiga kumanywa – “igitoki” gisa neza, kandi umubyimba mwinshi wa cream kuruhu bitanga ububi runaka;
- umurongo usobanutse neza umurongo wijisho – ibi ntibivuye muri ubu buhanga;
- gukoresha igicucu cyinshi cyane – igicucu cya exotic make cyabuze;
- igicucu kibi (gusa ibidasanzwe ni ibara ryibara) – kubwibi, ntibishoboka kugera kubisubizo byifuzwa;
- guhitamo icyarimwe iminwa n’amaso – nibyiza kwibanda ku gicucu;
- kurenza urugero hamwe no gushushanya – amajwi yose agomba kuba mu rugero;
- ukoresheje igicucu gusa – imirongo irasobanutse neza, ukeneye igicucu cy’ikaramu.
Inama zingirakamaro
Kugirango ubone “igitoki” neza, kurikiza tekinike yo gusaba hanyuma witoze bike. Impanuro zabahanzi bo kwisiga basangiye ubuhanga nubuhanga bwo kwisiga ntibizaba birenze.
“Umuneke” mu kinyejana cyegereje
Iki nikibazo kubagore benshi, cyane cyane nyuma yimyaka 40. Ntabwo bigoye kubikemura hifashishijwe tekinike ya “igitoki”:
- Shushanya umurongo hamwe n’ikaramu iri hejuru gato y’umurongo w’ijisho ryimbere. Ntuzizane mu mfuruka y’ijisho. Ihitamo ryiza nuguhuza umurongo wakozwe nigufwa ryamagufwa.
- Uhereye hejuru, hamwe na brush, tanga igicucu igicucu cyijimye. Kora igicucu.
- Mu mfuruka y’imbere y’amaso, kora ijwi ryoroheje. Munsi yijisho.
- Mugice cyo hagati cyijisho ryo hejuru, shyiramo ibara ryijimye.
- Shushanya imfuruka yo hanze ukoresheje ikaramu hanyuma ukoresheje igicucu cyijimye.
Umwihariko wo kwisiga hamwe nijisho ryegereje ni uko ijisho ryo hepfo ridashushanijwe muburyo ubwo aribwo bwose.
Nigute ushobora gukosora imiterere y’amaso?
Gukosora birakenewe niba umugore afite ibibazo byo guhuza amaso. Niba begereye cyane, kora ibi bikurikira:
- Tandukanya ijisho ryimuka hamwe n’ikaramu. Ukuri kwiki gikorwa nuko iyo ijisho rifunguye, umurongo ugaragara.
- Huza uyu murongo. Komeza icyerekezo werekeza ku mboni. Noneho shyira igicucu cyijimye.
- Kuruhande rwuyu murongo kumurongo winyuma, shyira pigment igicucu giciriritse.
- Wibande kurambura gato impande zinyuma.
- Koresha amabara yoroheje ukurikije gahunda isanzwe.
Hamwe n’amaso-yashizwe kure, kora kimwe, hamwe no gutandukanya igicucu cyibara ryoroheje bikoreshwa mugice cyo hagati cyijisho ryimbere. Wibande ku kuba umurongo ushushanyije utagicucu ku mboni, ariko hepfo.
Ibitoki byibitoki bifatwa nkibisanzwe mubahanzi bafite uburambe, kuko nibyiza mubihe byose. Ariko icy’ingenzi nuko ushobora kubikora wenyine, bisaba igihe gito cyo kwiga. Muri maquillage, hafi igicucu cyose cya palette kirakoreshwa, urashobora rero guhitamo ibara rihuye namaso cyangwa imyambarire.