History of makeup from the nineteenth century to 1930-ies. As a cosseted lady replaced the “vamp”?

After the French revolution , aristocratic fashion with its abundance of white, blush and fruit flies are becoming a thing of the past. If in the early nineteenth century Napoleon Bonaparte could still berating the lady for what she was in the audience nenabunena, soon the obscene becomes the painted face.

History of makeup from the nineteenth century to 1930-ies. As a cosseted lady replaced the "vamp"?
Greta Garbo


In fashion naturalness, to which with makeup at that time was extremely difficult. In this case, the canons of the beautiful female faces remain white and blush. But to achieve this we have natural ways. For example, for the formation of blush girls eat the strawberries or just pinching yourself in the cheek. And to make the skin white drinking vinegar or eating specially purified crushed chalk (it was sold in pharmacies). Lips could do that to give a white sheen, and his eyes quite a bit to tint.

After the French revolution , aristocratic fashion with its abundance of white, blush and fruit flies are becoming a thing of the past. If in the early nineteenth century Napoleon Bonaparte could still berating the lady for what she was in the audience nenabunena, soon the obscene becomes the painted face.

Greta GarboSource In fashion naturalness, to which with makeup at that time was extremely difficult. In this case, the canons of the beautiful female faces remain white and blush. But to achieve this we have natural ways. For example, for the formation of blush girls eat the strawberries or just pinching yourself in the cheek. And to make the skin white drinking vinegar or eating specially purified crushed chalk (it was sold in pharmacies). Lips could do that to give a white sheen, and his eyes quite a bit to tint.

Moreover, in times of romanticism was dominated by a kind of “tuberculous” chic. Romantic, sublime nature was to look not only soft and subtle, but desirable and… painful. That is, pale, exhausted, with dark circles around the eyes. Suffering from tuberculosis beauty — often the image on the pages of the literature of the time (suffice it to recall the Marguerite Gautier from the novel by Alexandre Dumas the younger “the lady of the camellias”, which is imitated by many impressionable ladies). Therefore, cosmetic products popular only powder.

Théophile Gautier:

“Delicate powder helps to give the skin mica marble shade and hide the healthy glow, which looks totally inappropriate, because it assumes the superiority of physical needs over spiritual needs. Using the powder form of the living body approaching the form of the sculpture; they are cleaned and oduhotvorenno”.

In the second half of the XIX century, the cosmetics often used. The trendsetter of the time — the French Empress Eugenie is already pretty much black ink your eyes. However bright the makeup is vulgar and is appropriate only for prostitutes, Actresses, dancers, and other “ladies of the demimonde”. Other lovers overly decorate the face everywhere condemn.

Lynn Linton, “the Saturday review of literature”, 1860

“It is a creation that dyes her hair and paints the face, as if this is the first commandment of its religion. Washed her life — the fun, the main purpose is luxury.”

In the early twentieth century as a great sin in cosmetics will not see. It is used by all the ladies, but very moderately. For example, the powder is usually used to whiten a red nose in winter, and to hide the shiny face in the summer. However, the cosmetics business has not yet become ubiquitous, so cosmetics can be found mostly in theatrical stores.

Actually, from the stage of theaters and screens of cinema and begins a new page in the history of makeup. Influenced by Actresses in 1910-ies begin to paint more often and brighter. In Kansas even propose to prohibit the use of cosmetics ladies 44 years to “not to create a false impression”.

The fact that the movie was then silent and black-and-white, so the Actresses had to put a bright (even a bit grotesque) makeup. First, he looked better under the lights. Second, it gave the face an expression — because the feelings and passions had to Express without words.

It was the cinema, makes the most popular mascara for eyes, which even in the 1830-ies was invented by Eugene Rimmel (by the way, the firm Rimmel still exists, and the word in Portuguese, Romanian, Turkish is synonymous with the word “mascara”). However, the invention Rimmel long in demand, while in 1913 the ink is not engaged in another man — chemist Terry Williams. Stimulated Williams is not a commercial interest, and the family — his sister Mabel sat on the shelf, and its urgent need was to marry. To make eyes more beautiful sister, a chemist, and produced the ink by mixing soot with vaseline. The mixture he took in the tiles and added to the set of a brush for applying. Say, invention help, Mabel was engaged, and bore a firm with her name — Yes, well known Maybelline.

Two years later, cosmetic set was enriched with another invention in 1915 in the United States released the first lipstick in a tube.

And in 1916 directed by David Wark Griffith, the first to use false eyelashes for a-f “Intolerance”. He wanted the film’s heroine, Princess Attaria (actress Sienna Owen) — had the look, shining, “more than life itself”. What stuck in her eye fringe lush, almost reaching his cheeks.

In the field of cinema started the famous Max Factor. The same man who coined the concept of “make-up”, the idea of color harmony in make-up (shades should be in harmony not only among themselves but also with natural color of hair, skin, eyes), and embodied it in the concept of the four color types of women. He also perfected and popularized the false eyelashes, and for actress Clara bow was developed a specific makeup — the so-called “Cupid’s bow” with curved line of the upper lip and Burgundy lipstick, giving your mouth a form of “heart-kiss.”

But perhaps the most important for fashionistas around the world was that in 1927, Max Factor started mass production of compact beauty. Now any woman could use them to paint exactly like her favorite movie star.

In 1920-e years, bright makeup has gone from screens straight to the masses. Languid pampered ladies was replaced by daring and active girl with a rather flat figure and boyish hairstyles. However, to confuse them with the boys was impossible, if only because of the abundance of cosmetics, creating a frightening and compelling image of “vamp”.

“Smoky” mascara drenched eyes, giving them a round a closed form (so-called “smoky eyes”). Sometimes before applying makeup to the eyelids rubbed vaseline to add Shine.

The dark did the inner corner of the upper eyelid and outer corners of the eyes (and eyebrows) were “sad” propusti. Eyebrows plucked (or shaved), and in their place draw a clear black line. Draw eyebrows sought away from each other — that is to say, in the dispersion.

Except for the eyes-with the focus on the lips. However, in contrast to the huge and touching sad eyes, her mouth was drawn tiddly and well-rounded (no wonder people of the 1920-ies today seem to be surprised, offended). Now lipstick is a constant companion of women’s cosmetics. Most popular lip color was dark cherry with a matte shade, ie without any Shine.

Matt the pale had to look and face. Blush, if applied, the delicate shades in the form of circular spots.

In the 1930-ies of the makeup becoming more calm, but not less than “puppet”. Trendsetters are still the stars of cinema.

Lips continue to be “strained” — have a clear outline and shape of the “kiss”, but their size becomes more natural. The center of the lips stands out, and the corners lifted in a compressed smile. The lipstick color is not as rich and dark. Is used and lip gloss.

The main focus in the face of done on eyes. Their path is clearly marked and connected in the corner. The space under the eyebrow fills, and below — forever — applied shadows of dark shades. Eyelashes have plenty of paint to make them look long and thick.

Well, of course, the first thing that catches the eye makeup 30’s- so it’s the eyebrows. Their finely plucked and painted on, trying to give an arc shape, fixed to the highest point to the temples. With such arched eyebrow lady could look like a slightly surprised (as Jean Harlow), and coldly arrogant (as Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich).

The second feature of the female face 30 years old- high cheekbones. To highlight cheekbones, under them were applied a dark, well feathered blush. The high cheekbones “a La Garbo” was so popular that some ladies have removed their upper lateral teeth to make her cheeks sunken.

In the second half of the 1930-ies the makeup of women was complemented by two further innovations. In 1936, Max Factor launched the first Foundation, and in 1939 Helena Rubinstein develops the first waterproof mascara. But since this mascara was created on the basis of turpentine (so, not very good smell and cause allergic reactions), used it only in exceptional cases.

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